July 13, 2004
MarkBernstein.org
 

Schnitzel

I tried to try the schnitzel at Figlmüller, but the line was too long and the line was speaking too much English, and so I wandered down the street to Neu Wien. There, I had a very tasty little schnitzel indeed. It followed yet another plate of those lovely eierschwammerl, fresh mushrooms-of-the-moment that I can't spell in German and that the Cambridge Museum of Fruits and Vegetables sells for $22.50/lb in season. This time, they were sauteed and dressed in a light cream sauce; I've also had them in egg (Spatzennest) and as a gratin with potatoes and lovely cheese (Una). I had my nightly glass of Grüner Veltliner with the mushrooms -- I could get used to that -- and a Blaufränkisch which was light-bodied (as I'd asked) and astonishingly tannic.

Schnitzel

Then, on to Zwölf Apostelkeller for a glass of spätllese and a book in the corner, amidt lots of medieval vaultwork, much repaired and modified in various eras. It was better vaultwork than at the Alte Backstube last night, which has plenty of Alte-itude and a marinated pork that's postively inspirational.

There's a lot of Vienna under the surface, it seems.