Ebert
Roger Ebert makes wonderful, thoughtful points about art and film, even when dismissing a bad movie his readers are unlikely to see. Look at this opening paragraph:
"Only enormously talented people could have made 'Death to Smoochy.' Those with lesser gifts would have lacked the nerve to make a film so bad, so miscalculated, so lacking any connection with any possible audience. To make a film this awful, you have to have enormous ambition and confidence, and dream big dreams." (full review...)