July 19, 2024
MarkBernstein.org
 

Nemi

In Philadelphia for history of the early American Republic, we’d intended to go to La Martina, a neighborhood Mexican restaurant with a Beard Award and an intriguing menu. Alas, the neighborhood (or, to be precise, the neighbors) were scary. I don’t think that’s happened to me before, not in Kolkata, not in Mexico City.

But we wound up (fairly) nearby at Nemi, a small, welcoming and modern Mexican place in Richmond that would not, I think, be out of place in Coyoacán. Especially a lovely aguachile de pescado of whatever seemed good to the chef. Terrific variations on margarita which were sensibly thought through and not just overwhelmed. Churros as good as Madrid’s.