March 1, 2011
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Journeyman

We had a delightful dinner last weekend and Journeyman, the elegant new Somerville hole in the wall. Diana Kudajarova and Tse Wei Lim took an industrial space in what is essentially an alleyway off Union Square and turned it into a wonderful little restaurant, serving fixed menus of three, five or seven courses. I had seven (naturally) and they were great – especially a wonderful plate of terrine de foie gras with an olive-chocolate tapenade.

The food is incredibly intricate. These guys really love to cook, because this kind of cooking means rising at dawn and prepping all day. Each plate, it seems, has six or seven or even more components, each intricate; some of them are tiny touches, tasty little crumbs that add texture and deliciousness but must be a bear to make every day.

It’s a nifty space, too, with an indoor herb factory (you’ll know it when you see it) and a counter I’m eager to try some night.